Bye Bye Blackbird

After months of preparing and longing to get back out on the bike with Tunes, we left from our home in Lambertville this morning at about 9 AM. Our first stop was just a few miles away to say a heartfelt goodbye to my awesome boss and dear friend Anita, who has been beyond kind and helped make this journey possible. Then, just like that, we were touring again! 
  
It was fitting that the first <20 miles were on the towpath along the Delaware River, riding through the dust and bugs, a path I’ve traversed many times since moving to New Jersey (and one of the selling points to get me to move down here, truth be told). Tunes has history there, too, as that’s where we first used to go riding when she was smaller and rode in a dog-carrying backpack before the Tunes Machine was a reality. There were a lot of people out walking or cycling on this warm Sunday morning, and as we passed people strolling along, it was fun to hear the reactions once they realized Petunia was on board. “Oh my god! See the dog on that bike?” Others laughed, some gasped gleefully, and one person announced that this little dog on this massively packed bike was the cutest sight she’d ever seen. 
Soon enough, I’d passed Frenchtown and started going farther north than I’d been before. River road wasn’t a full two lanes wide, mostly without cars, and bordered by the Delaware on one side and a red rock wall on the other. It wasn’t terribly hilly which was pleasant, and I was making good time without breaking a sweat, although my legs definitely were working. This year, riding totally solo and with some new and borrowed gear additions, I notice how heavy the rig is– much more than the last time around. The night before I departed, I loaded up the Trek and took it for a test run down the block, and nearly fell over from the uneven, unwieldy weight on my front end. The bike was nearly uncontrollable, and so I pedaled the short distance back home and set to work on lightening my load. 
The austerity measures were somewhat grim– I ditched the new travel fishing rod and accessories that I packed when I had hope that I might catch and eat some fresh fish on this year’s ride. Then I abandoned the cook stove and fuel, the pan and the titanium spork. Next went some bike supplies and tools that hopefully won’t be used: spare spokes, brake pads, duplicate Allen keys. The silver emergency blanket, a pair of pants, some parts of the extensive first aid kit, and 2 pounds of dehydrated dog food were next to go. The more I expunged from my panniers, the more foolish I felt for having gone so wrong. And to think that I’d gotten the hang of this last year! Hrumph. All in all, several pounds of items were left behind, and the bike handled much better. But it was still too heavy for me to pick up, and although I’m not ripped, I’m no wilting daisy either. I figured I’d get used to it over time, or just push it up the really steep hills. And probably decide to send some things home later on.
In Pittsburgh, NJ, a rather run-down looking city, I made my first stop at a little bodega to refill water and buy Tunes a tiny cup of vanilla ice cream. I hesitated about leaving my bike outside after I saw two printed signs taped to the door that read “You can come in if you are a customer which means you have money to BUY something, otherwise please wait outside,” and perhaps more telling, “We do NOT sell bath salts or spice/K2.” But I leaned the bike up against the window and went in anyway. Once outside, a couple of 7 year olds approached me on small bikes of their own and wisely asked to pet Petunia. I obliged and they asked me about my gear and where I was going. One kid was mesmerized by my front lamp. It was fun chatting with them for a minute and seeing them try to work out how I could ride across the country with a dog just by pedaling. 
The roads became modestly hilly, and one particularly steep section had me hopping off the bike to push, although I realized that it was so heavy, even pushing it was a trial. But overall, it was a beautiful day and a peaceful ride, and many others were out enjoying the holida weekend as well, and I counted about 20 kayaks and quite a few boats on the river.

  
I stopped at a lovely restaurant that had outdoor seating called Nonpareils and treated myself to a First Day Out dinner in Belvidere when I hit 60 miles. I feasted on an excellent tomato zucchini basil soup and a giant spinach salad while Tunes has treats and bleu cheese. Then we crossed the river into PA, and stopped at a campground in Portland. A simple water hook up camp site was $45, so I cruised around and asked a couple of friendly looking people if I could toss them a few bucks to set up my humble tent behind their mammoth RV, but they seemed nervous about the “very strict” rules of the campground and didn’t want to get in trouble. They were all to happy to share a big serving of grilled chicken, broccoli and yellow rice, so we gratefully accepted, washed up in the bathroom, and beat it before it started to get dark. A few miles away, I found a little clearing off the side of the road, and set up camp not far from a railroad track and a big stack of wooden railroad ties. I shared the chicken and rice with Tunes, then took a makeshift shower with the help of a few water bottles, and retired for the evening. It wasn’t a glamorous location for my first night out, but it was quiet and it was free, and after my first 71 mile day, all I needed was a place to pass out, anyway. 

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Here It Goes Again!

This year, we’re raising money to support Gearing Up, a wonderful non-profit based in Philadelphia, that provides women in transition from abuse, addiction, and/or incarceration with the skills, equipment, and guidance to safely ride a bicycle for exercise, transportation, and personal growth.  Help support our ride: http://www.gofundme.com/TouringTunes2015

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Do you wanna come on down to the city of Missoula? On a summer day, the Clark Fork River’s gonna cool ya

Note: This post was originally written on August 9th, 2014. The blog went on a bit of a hiatus!

The Idaho border was nearly in our sights, but first, a trip to one of the bigger cities on the route: Missoula, Montana, headquarters of the Adventure Cycling Association (the non-profit that produced our maps and originally mapped this ’76 route).

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Petunia and I donned matching smiles as we enjoyed the temperate weather and pleasant ride through a funky old-western looking town and crept toward modernity. Before reaching Missoula, the views of the mountains, farms and wildflowers in Lolo were showcased alongside a scenic and safe bike path. The paved path, separated from the main road, was covered in hopping and flitting locusts, creating a low-hovering cloud of yellow-gray bugs that constantly sprang up ahead of my front tire.

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There were some scary sections of highway without a shoulder that we had to ride in order to reach the city, but once we were there, that strange feeling of being suddenly overwhelmed by civilization and development was more dizzying than the traffic.

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2014-08-10 18.19.12 HDRReaching Missoula at sunset, we made our way to the other side of the city, where we met our lovely WarmShowers hosts for the night (which turned into the next few nights as well), the warm and welcoming residents of a hip shared home of Courtney, Corey, Jane, Sean, Jacob, Gwen, and Maalaea the Newfoundland, the biggest dog Petunia and I have ever seen.

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We tooled around Missoula for a few days, checking out the ACA office and enjoyed a little photoshoot courtesy of Greg Siple, Art Director at ACA. We also got to weigh our bikes… my mostly-stocked rig weighed in at a hair over 100 lbs, including Petunia, and Greg’s rig weighed 90-something. And these were the weights after mailing home some gear and shedding supplies!

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Our lovely hosts took us tubing down the Clark Fork river, and filled us in on what life is like in the young, hip, liberal pocket of Missoula, with its large concentration of non-profit social service organizations, bike-friendly attitude, and seasonal influxes of young, homeless wanderers and nomads. In return for their many, many kindnesses, we grilled up a ton of fruity kebabs in a glorious feast, a festive outdoor round-table style share, interspersed with moments of somber reflection on the cultural loss of Robin Williams’s passing.

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Our hosts generously let us stay for a few days, and I picked up a nice care package that my boss mailed me all the way from Jersey– tasty treats for me and Petunia, and some gift cards for me and my human companion. Missoula was a great stop and I’m glad we got a chance to stick around and explore it. It seems like a city I would enjoy living in! We might be back someday. Plus, fun Missoula/cycling/music trivia, from Wikipedia:

 “Apology Song,” originally sung by The Decemberists’ frontman Colin Meloy into the answering machine of a friend named Steven as a legitimate apology for the loss of a beloved bicycle named Madeline, contains several references to Missoula, Montana. The “Orange Street Food Farm” is a local grocery store popular with University of Montana students (mostly for buying beer). The “Frenchtown Pond” is a reference to Frenchtown Pond State Park located in Frenchtown which is approximately 15 miles northwest of Missoula. Meloy told audiences on 2 October 2007 at Royal Festival Hall how they reclaimed the bicycle years later, only for it to be crushed between cars when he was helping the true owner of the bike move house.

Cheers, Missoula!

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How far we’ve come.

Hello, Dear Friends!

Since our last update, we have so much to share with you that we can’t encapsulate it all in this one post. Petunia, Jame and Greg made it successfully all the way to the coast of Oregon as planned!

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Upon reaching our goal destination of Florence, Oregon, Greg and I parted ways, and while Greg flew home to Jersey, I decided to continue riding south, down the coast and towards California, with my four-legged travel buddy in tow.

For the most part, I rode on highway 101, despite the narrow shoulders and sometimes unaccommodating drivers. It was a wonderful solo riding experience, and I met many other really interesting cyclists and adventurers. I had the opportunity to ride on and off with one group of friends who hailed and pedaled from Portland, and formed friendships that continue to delight and inspire me.

For the entire month of September, I rode at a very leisurely pace that accommodated exploration, introspection, and the genesis of some very amusing stories that may never be retold in their entirety.

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More  unfolded than can be explained here, but for the sake of brevity, I shall say that the individuals I rode with on and off (Greg, Seth, and Alex) were incredibly kind and fun to pedal alongside (or in front of, because I’d become inured to the heat and hills and my little dog did not ever like to be be the caboose), and I was grateful to have met them and had their company and hear their tales along the way.

The long story short, I rode self-supported from central Oregon to Yosemite National Park in California, and stayed there for a few days, rogue camping and basking in the brilliance that the gorgeous valley views had to offer. I even experienced a close encounter with a coyote, who came just a few yards away from the tent, then left unperturbed and without a peep from Petunia, who was sleeping inside, blissfully unaware of the visit from her distant relative.

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From Yosemite, I got ground transpo by bus and train (no shoulders at all = very scary uphill riding) to SanFrancisco, and stayed there for a few days, courtesy of my dear friend Judy, in her sweet apartment in a fabulous area of the city. I shipped my bicycle and gear home, so it was just the two of us on foot and paws, with one small bag of supplies.

Practically having stepped off of the train in SF, Petunia and I met a wonderful couple, Michelle and Sean, who showed us some great fun in the Bay Area and Oakland, and we had a rollicking good time. Petunia and I flew home at the very end of September, to return to Jersey and get back to work, bringing home an impermeable fondness for bicycle touring and immense joy for the adventures we’d had.

So much joy and delectable recent nostalgia, in fact, that we are planning on going out on another bicycle tour adventure in less than a month! So stay ‘tuned’– we’ll be touring yet again on another route, chronicling our journey here, facing new challenges and being the crazies my parents warned me about.

With love,
Jamie and Petunia, aka “Touring Tunes”

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Down By the River

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I was raring to roll in the morning, and being all packed up and mostly pain-free, we agreed that I’d get a head start and Greg would catch up with me. I took a little detour at a visitor center that sent him sailing past me unknowingly, and we rode independently for the day. It was a gorgeous ride past the limits of the hot, flat desert and through the quiet stretches of forests, climbing once again up hills that seemed tame in comparison to the steep slopes of the east.

The solitude and silence of the forest allowed me to be alone with my dog and my thoughts until a wonderful 7% grade downhill run that careened alongside mountain cliffs and revealed dazzling valley views that whizzed by each bend in the road. I met a couple along the way who just graduated college and were doing a perimeter tour of the U.S, and stopped for water and snacks at the one shop along the way. The woman at the counter had lots of questions about Petunia, and when I removed my helmet, she exclaimed, “Oh, the guy you’re riding with is up ahead by 30 or 45 minutes. He asked if a woman with a shaved head had already stopped by.”

Petunia stopped to scope out some deer on a hillside along the way, and finally we came to rest at a campsite along a river in Montana.

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It was a peaceful evening of river bathing and settling in, and there was a huge super-moon that illuminated the campground and river in an eerie bright blue light. IMAG0668

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